When your body blueprint (your SFD sloper) fits your unique dimensions to your liking, consider taking special design features from your stash of commercial patterns and blending them for use directly onto your personalized pattern. This accomplishes two important things. It gives you a pattern that fits you properly and incorporates design details (from the commercial pattern) without you having to draw that particular pattern piece.
Sheila did exactly this...
Sheila is narrow in the shoulders and upper chest area, yet has a proportionally larger, fuller bust. If she got a pattern to fit in the bust - often requiring a full bust adjustment (FBA), everything was always too wide for her shoulders and upper chest area. With Sure-Fit Designs, she blueprinted her pattern to fit her unique torso.
Then, she did this...
In Sheila's words - "This blouse is my first attempt at combining a commercial pattern with my Sure-Fit Designs body blueprint. It was really very easy!
The body and sleeves of this blouse are my SFD bodice. The commercial pattern is McCalls #2094 which was from my pattern stash. To make the new pattern I laid my SFD bodice front over the McCalls bodice front making sure center fronts matched and shoulder lines were close. Then I traced the center front extension from McCalls and also their neckline; continued by using my SFD shoulder line and the rest of my bodice including bust and waist darts. The hemline was traced from the McCalls pattern.
The back was traced the same way using the neckline from the commercial pattern.
Other pieces of the commercial pattern that were used were the collar, front facing and back neck facing. It is a very simple pattern to sew, but I checked with the directions before basting the collar in place.
Since this blouse has been finished I've made two more. One used a different collar, and I moved the bust dart to the side seam, and the other had princess seams. What versatility!"
The result...is the Best of Both Worlds...definitely a Winner!
And a cautionary note...
If you are using a commercial pattern collar and applying it to your SFD neckline, make sure you measure the corresponding seam lines - they need to be exactly the same length. i.e. the stitching line of the collar would need to be the same length as the neck stitching line on your SFD pattern.
Then all you need to do is sew it together with the instructions from the commercial pattern guide sheet.
Additionally, Sure-Fit Designs now has a DVD devoted to Fitting Commercial Patterns - click here.
Variation from McCall's #6076
Blending Commercial Patterns with your SFD Body Blueprint
More examples of using her SFD body blueprint to modify the fit of a number of Vogue patterns.
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