I hear this question often - 'I'd like a little more room in my bodice for wearing ease. What do I do?’ All of you know to sew a muslin test of your SFD Dress Kit bodice before going directly into a 'fashion' design. Obviously, you need to check for bust dart placement, shoulder width, upper chest width, waist length, sleeve comfort, general feel of the ease given in the pattern etc.
This is so easy to do. When you are tracing a copy of your bodice blueprint, simply go up one size dot at underarm point #2 and at the dart bust-grading series of dots.
As an example, I measure 34.5" for bust circumference. For the blouse in this photo, I went up to the 35.5 dots only in the underarm and bust dart dots. (Note: for half measurements, go in-between the given dots).
Neck dots and shoulder length remainded the same.
If using a set-in sleeve, you'll also need to increase only the underarm dots one size larger.
Make sure you are comfortable with the reach room in your bodice blueprint. If not, you can also give yourself a touch more reach room right across the back shoulder blades, but this is only if you haven't done that in your muslin test.
As I said above, don't over fit. You have to have reach room as I explain in the Moulage/Sloper/Blueprint video above.
As for the design of the blouse, it features a princess line going up into the shoulder line on both front and back. The princess seam has been topstitched with the 'Cover Stitch' from my new Baby Lock Evolution serger.
And this sleeve hem design features the inverted 'V'. For directions on designing and sewing this hem variation, you'll find that in Free Stuff on this web site. Enjoy!
And when all is said and done, and you're happy with the outcome, remember that you've been fitting your personalized bodice sloper, which I refer to as your body/bodice blueprint. You definitely need to establish your back reach room as well as bust circumference ease. Remember, you are establishing your sloper fit - this is not a moulage. If you don't know the difference between a moulage vs. sloper,watch the video to the right. Please don't 'over fit'!
But now it's time to turn your blueprint into fashion blouse (or dress) and you'd really like to have a little more bust circumference ease.
Wearing ease really is personal perference. You might like less or more, but I can move very comfortably in this blouse.
You can always measure a blouse you know you like for the amount of ease it has and compare to your bust measurement. This will assist in knowing how much to size up if you want to.
Wearing Ease: Sizing up for more wearing ease/comfort
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